Flame Proof: Sectioning, Formula and Placement for this Fiery Red – Color


Cassandra Bartosch (@hairbycassandramarie)  had a client come in with red hair that continued to “hot root” over time so her roots and upper mids were much brighter than her dulled browned out ends.  Bartosch used Difiaba Color to create this rich blend.




Regrowth Level 6-7; Mids and end Level 7-8    


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The “Before”

FLAME PROOF HOW-TO

1: Bartosch began this color process with a root melt using the formula 25g 5nw, 10g 5r, 10g 6.35 with 68g level 0 developer.

2: While the root was processing, Bartosch went from the back to the top of the head in v-shaped sections. 

3: “I take a baby weave off the top of each section, a chunky separated weave from what’s remaining, and then with the hair that is still left I alternate either the red base (Difiaba 25g 6r, 10g 6.35 with 52g of 3.2.1. Color Activator) or the lowlight accent depth (Difiaba 10g 5r, 10g 4c with 30g of level 0 developer).” 

4: The chunky weave gets a light tease and the root color is melted down into the teased area.  Then using a 7 volume lightener, Bartosch balayaged in a “v” from mid-lengths to ends. 

5: With the baby weave that veils on top of the chunky weave, she lightly teases, melts the root down into the tease, and balayaged up higher than the chunky weave; this section is painted on a slant where its peak is towards the front of the face. 

6: “Working my way through the entire head using this method on repeat at different heights and separations I am able to get the whole head processing at once in about an hour of applying.”  

7: Once the color is processed for 30 minutes, rinse and shampoo thoroughly.  

8: Towel dried well and applied an all-over glaze of 10g 9.44, 10g 8.44, 5g Orange Intensifier with 38g of 3.2.1. Color Activator. Allow to process 15 minutes, rinse thoroughly and shampoo just the roots and condition. 

 

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